1995 John Galliano 'Dolores' Collection Runway Black Wool Jacket Hourglass Suit

ID: 1114253

Size: small

Condition: excellent

A highly coveted, well-documented John Galliano black wool crepe peplum jacket with matching fitted hourglass skirt dating back to his groundbreaking 1995 fall-winter runway collection. John Galliano, already a rising star by the mid-1990s, had become known for his fiercely romantic, historically charged silhouettes and his ability to turn runway shows into full theatrical worlds. At this moment in his career, he was regarded as one of fashion’s great visionaries—so influential that just months later he would be appointed creative director of Givenchy, becoming the first British designer to helm a French couture house. The fall/winter 1995 'Dolores' collection is particularly legendary, not only for its designs but for its unforgettable presentation. Guests were led onto a snow-covered rooftop of a Paris warehouse scattered with boats and sailors, creating one of the decade’s most cinematic runway environments. Nearly the entire collection was rendered in stark black and white, amplifying its dramatic film-noir mood. This runway look 11 was modeled by the stunning Trish Goff—its razor-sharp tailoring and sculptural silhouette made it a standout.

The jacket is a marvel of Galliano’s early mastery of cut: crafted in inky black wool, it carves a dramatic hourglass shape with architectural seaming that draws the eye to the narrowest part of the waist. The shoulders are perfectly puffed yet firm, giving structure without heaviness, while the flared peplum adds a nod to 1940's fashion history. The plunging neckline is framed by soft, folded lapel panels, creating a subtle drape effect rarely seen in tailoring of this period. And, of course, the buttons—large wool-wrapped discs—are quintessential Galliano. While the runway version was styled with a long silk gown, this ensemble includes its original shin-length hourglass skirt, creating a sleek, elongated column from waist to hem. As Galliano’s final collection before stepping into the world of haute couture, 'Dolores' marks a turning point not only for the designer but for modern fashion history. Pieces from this show are extraordinarily rare and represent the last chapter of his indie era—a moment when artistry was unfettered and budgets were shoestring but his genius was unmistakable.