1950’s Philip Hulitar Couture Metallic Floral Ombré Pink Silk Satin Appliquéd Strapless Gown

This very rare late-1950's Philip Hulitar metallic floral brocade ombré silk satin appliquéd gown is such an exquisite example of Old Hollywood American couture. Hulitar launched his namesake label in 1949 after eighteen years as one of Bergdorf Goodman’s top chief designers and head of the women’s dress division, quickly earning a devoted following among New York high society. His clientele included Elizabeth Taylor and Joan Fontaine, while the model Jean Patchett was famously photographed in his designs for Vogue. Today his work can be found in important museum collections, including The Metropolitan Museum of Art and the Chicago History Museum.

This exquisite gown has a figure-flattering strapless silhouette that fits closely through the bodice, cinches at the waist, and opens into a long skirt that falls to the floor. But this dress is really all about that incredible fabric. Fashioned from the highest quality silk satin, the base begins in a pale mauve hue at the waist before gradually deepening through shades of pink, rose and brilliant fuchsia, finally reaching a rich raspberry red along the hem. Sprawling metallic-gold brocade peonies with slender stems, leaves and rounded buds are woven throughout. The flowers really catch the light as you move, allowing the gold to shimmer at different angles. Look closely and even the satin itself has fine golden metallic threads woven in, giving the entire surface a subtle glimmer. The fitted chic bodice is expertly ruched horizontally around the torso, while interior boning provides the hidden structure needed to hold you in place perfectly. Hulitar then individually appliquéd motifs from the floral brocade across the top, placing one slightly above the bust line—a beautiful detail that showcases the level of workmanship that went into the gown. At the back, the pleated treatment continues across the fitted section, accented with additional floral appliqués and finished with a concealed center zipper. From the narrow waist, the skirt opens into generous folds before sweeping behind you into a dramatic train. Unforgettable and impossible to ignore, this is truly American mid-century couture at its finest.