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1950's Germana Marucelli Italian Couture Mocha Silk Pleated Strapless Gown
$4,200.00
ID: 0601251
Size: medium
Condition: very good
An ultra rare and incredibly timeless Germana Marucelli Italian couture mocha silk pleated strapless gown dating back to the early 1950's. Germana Marucelli (1905–1983) was a pioneering Italian fashion designer known for her deep intellectual engagement with art, poetry, and the evolving role of women in society. By the age of eleven, Marucelli had already created her first original design—a draped motif for her cousin’s wedding gown. Her formative years were spent apprenticing with her aunt and absorbing haute couture in Paris, where her remarkable visual memory allowed her to recreate French runway designs with precision. In the 1930's, Marucelli joined the prestigious Ventura tailoring house. Despite Fascist restrictions forbidding imitation of French fashion, she continued to attend Parisian shows, quietly rebelling through creativity. In 1932, she opened her first atelier in Genoa and later moved to Milan, which became her creative hub. During World War II, she remained active in Stresa, designing for the wealthy elite who had relocated there. After the war, she launched her own maison, developing a distinctive Italian style independent from French influence. Her designs prefigured Dior’s famed New Look, a fact documented in Fernanda Pivano 1964 memoir, 'Le favole del ferro da stiro'. Germana Marucelli remains a seminal figure in the history of Italian fashion. This rare gown is one of the earliest examples of her trademark style via pleat work.
Made from a luxurious mid-weight silk crepe, this showstopper is in the prettiest gold-trimmed mocha hue. The strapless nipped waist bodice has boned corsetry with intricate pleating at the bust. Shimmering metallic gold thread embroidery complemented by glass beads and pearls brings the design to the next level. The same style beadwork also adornes the back low-waist for a dramatic exit. This couture embellishment alone must have taken weeks to complete.The hourglass nipped waist flows into a full-length fitted wiggle skirt with an impressive attached asymmetric pleated over skirt. The pleats were a Marucelli staple and early examples like this were inspired by Renaissance art where the pleated organdie fabric blends in with the grooves of classical columns. This museum worthy gown is everything you look for in a Germana Marucelli. An important archival piece of Italian fashion history ready to walk the red carpet.
Measurements
Bust: 35-36 inches
Waist: 26-27 inches
Hips: up to 39 inches
Length top to waist: 10 inches
Length waist to hem: 49 inches
This rare Germana Marucelli custom couture gown is in beautiful wearable condition. The garment closes with the original side metal zipper and is lined in matching mocha silk. There is gorgeous corset boning throughout the interior bodice to keep the shape. Signs of age include some relaxed pleat work and minor missing beading. Please message for detailed pictures. A true piece of Italian mid-century fashion history.
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